Installing an Alarm Lock Trilogy DL3200 Series

Feb. 21, 2025
Re-handing the lock might be the trickiest part of this job

We’re going to be installing the Alarm Lock DL3200 Series in IC core format. This is the Trilogy T3 audit trail digital lock, a rugged, Grade 1 cylindrical lock. This is also the replacement for the DL 2800 that’s on the door right now.

 

Prep: Re-handing the Lock

The new lock comes right-handed and needs to be re-handed to put in the left-handed position. There’s a detent hole in the lever itself on the internal portion, but on the external portion, there’s not a detent hole. Therefore, you have to access the detent that releases the lever off of the lock body so that you can rotate the chassis 180 degrees so you can rehand the lock in the field.

This lock is field-handable, but it might throw you off because you don’t see that detent right away. It can be done; you just have to know the trick to do so.

Then you take your detent and push it in yet again so that the chassis will come out of the housing. And then you rotate it, flip it over 180 degrees, and you have now successfully re-handed the Alarm Lock 3200 Series, the IC core version of this particular lock. To put the panel on, do the same thing in reverse.

Installation

Now we’re going to start installing it onto the door by putting on the latch first.

We’re going to take the two wires that go to the motor and disconnect those so we can put all the wires through the holes. This door prep is not ideal (photo xx). Whoever did the previous installation didn’t really know what they were doing. It was poorly drilled and installed.

We have a jig that would have drilled this perfectly. But unless you are going to get a new door, we’re not going to be able to fix that. You can’t always clean up somebody else’s mess, unfortunately.

Install the first plate, leaving the screws a little loose, and then stick the wires through and reconnect them. If you don’t loosen these screws up, it’s very difficult to get the side screws in. Then, add the second plate that goes on the inside with the two screws. They are really using that white lithium grease very heavily. Silicone lubricant (photo xx) goes in that connector.

As soon as you connect the battery connector, you push and hold the AL button so that it clears out all of the programming in the lock itself. Then you can stuff all that wiring and the battery pack into the back of the lock.

Because that grease is following me everywhere, I am continually trying to keep that wiped down so that it doesn’t get on the customers’ hands when I have them test everything out.

The key to this is moving that wiring over and making sure the battery pack fits. Here’s what that detent looks like from the inside of the interchangeable core hole (photo xx).

Now we’ll try the lock out. 1-2-3-4-5-6 is the factory default code. Green light, latch retracts – this is a successful open.

Now it’s time to add the IC portion. It will come with its own tailpiece, so you get the control key, put the control key, put the control key in the control key position and insert it into the lock and there is your completed installation.

Wayne Winton is the owner of Tri-County Locksmith Services, located in Glenwood Springs, Colorado. For more information, check out Wayne’slockshop.com.

 

 

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About the Author

Wayne Winton

Wayne Winton is the owner of Tri-County Locksmith Services, located in Glenwood Springs, Colorado.