Using a good jig is one way to help to ensure a clean, fast professional looking lock installation. Although many locksmiths can free-hand the installation of a cylindrical lock, my experience is that it was a better move to use a jig, so I could work faster and neater and not have the dispatcher call 911 because they were worried I had injured myself again. (And I deny that the injury was my fault.)
Also, some of the most memorable lock installs involve having to retrofit a lock into an old prep that hadn’t been performed by the numbers, which prevented my new lock from fitting in the door or operating properly. Center lines are critical, and things get ugly fast when a new lock fails to line up. This is the case with wood and metal doors. The more time and tools you spend on a lock, the more likely you are to blemish the work.
So, being careful to locate the lock properly, then carefully punching out the holes with sharp holesaws and a jig assured me of doing just that, even under less than ideal conditions
It’s inevitable that some of your tools will require occasional replacement, but a good installation jig won’t be one of them. They’re built to last — maybe even longer than the company that made it.
Re-Enter the Bullseye
That brings me to the Framon Bullseye. This new tool is meant to replace the jig by the same name that vanished from the market when A-1 Manufacturing closed shop. We recently got a chance to check out this tool.
The new Bullseye Installation Jig can assist with drilling wood or metal doors. It’s completely self-contained besides a 3/32-inch Allen wrench to change bore sizes.
Here’s a list of features:
- 1-1/2- or 2-1/8-inch cross bore
- 2-3/8- or 2-3/4-inch backset (Through the tool’s built-in tabs, you can change from one to the other instantly!)
- 1/8-inch pilot holes at the 12 and 6 o’clock positions for locks that use 2-3/4-inch spacing for through bolts
- Optional interconnecting straps to set up proper spacing for a second Bullseye for interconnected locks
- Works with door thicknesses from 1-1/4 to 2-3/4 inches
On the Job
I replaced a wood door recently, and I used a PDQ pdqSMART-STP wireless stand-alone smart lock as a way to try out the Bullseye.
Framon suggests a few tips before you begin:
- Before you attach the Bullseye to the door, make sure that the surfaces of the jig are clean and smooth.
- The tool has two rubber pads that will contact the door face. Be sure they are free of anything that could scratch or mark the door.
- It’s also a good idea to wrap the door with a sheet of paper, thin cardboard or painter’s tape prior to attaching the jig as a precaution. You might want to mark a centerline on the door, and the painter’s tape is a good surface to scribble on.
Refer to the lock manufacturer’s recommended specifications for the height and backset, and mark the door accordingly. My door wasn’t prepped but was selected to fit into an existing frame, so I set the height of the new lock to align with the existing strike plate.
Now, follow these instructions from Framon:
Turn the wing knob counterclockwise until the jig is opened wider than the door thickness. Set the jig for the desired backset by flipping the backset tabs away from the door’s edge for a 2-3/4-inch backset or toward the end of the door for a 2-3/8-inch backset. Position the jig onto the door.
Turn the wing knob clockwise until the jig touches the door. Turn the thumb screw until it’s snug against the opposite side plate.
Tighten the lock nut. Loosen the wing knob and align the centerline notch with the height line you marked on the door and tighten the wing knob firmly.
If the lock you install specifies a 1-1/2-inch cross bore, leave the reducer bushings in place. If it specifies a 2-1/8-inch cross bore, however, remove the bushings by loosening the set screws with the provided hex wrench.
Drill the cross bore halfway from each side. Next drill the latch hole with the appropriate bit or hole saw. I prefer a sharp holesaw or Forstner bit. Then, loosen the wing knob one full turn and carefully remove the jig from the door.
If your installation requires you to locate the strike, you have a few options:
- The strike plate can be located by inverting a 1-inch holesaw into the latch hole. Shut the door and reach into the cross-bore hole and with a push and twist of the holesaw, you can mark the door jamb.
- You can use a strike locator, which is a metal cylinder that has a sharp point on one end that will leave a mark on the door and provide you with a centerline.
- You also can use a tri-square.
An additional feature of the Bullseye jig is two one-eighths-inch pilot holes to locate the through-bolt holes on many of today’s popular cylindrical lever locks. The holes are 2-3/4 inches apart and work with brands such as Marks, Schlage, Yale and SARGENT. Before you use the pilot holes, be sure to check the lock template and that the spacing is 2-3/4 inches, or 1-3/8 inches from the centerline of the bore.
Framon recommends you use a small drill bit to locate the holes, remove the jig from the door and drill halfway through the door from each side to complete the through-bolt hole. Now you can install the lock and the strike.
In all, the Bullseye made for a professional and easy installation.
Other Tools
You might benefit by having a few other tools for steel and aluminum door installations. For aluminum doors, I reach for my Dremel tool and the appropriate cutter attachments and, of course, drill bits and files.
Setting in a latch or a strike into aluminum typically requires installing offset tabs. The Adams Rite 91-0965 Universal Mounting Tab Kit is designed for this purpose.
Major Manufacturing MDLT-1 Pit Bull
For steel doors, the latch typically has to be countersunk into the edge of the door. It’s referred to as latch forming.
The Pit Bull tool is used to form a rectangular pocket in the edge of a hollow metal door. You drill the latch and cross bore holes and install the Pit Bull. A few turns with a wrench will squeeze an indentation into the door's edge. The result is a pocket that will accept latches that are 1- and 1-1/8-inch wide by 2-1/4 inches tall. It isn’t for use on doors that have a center seam.
More info: www.majormfg.com
LAB Strike Locator
The LAB strike locator for wood or steel preps is a durable way to guarantee the proper bolt or latch alignment to a strike hole in the door jamb or frame. The strike locator is made from solid stainless steel billet, which gives it a one-piece construction. It’s laser-engraved for durability and grooved for ease of use.
More info: www.labpins.com
Tim O’Leary is an experienced security consultant and a regular contributor to Locksmith Ledger.
Tim O'Leary
Tim O'Leary is a security consultant, trainer and technician who has also been writing articles on all areas of locksmithing & physical security for many years.
